Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Tailors in Hong Kong

I'm taking a break from mainland-China-related posts (although I have a couple up my sleeve -- more thoughts on our big trip and some on our mini-break this past weekend in Shenzhen) in order to write about getting a suit tailored in Hong Kong. Because it's awesome (so far).
Hong Kong is known for having a ton of tailor shops -- although plenty are just tourist traps that do a mediocre job. Most of the mediocre ones have "touts" -- guys who stand on the corners (especially along Nathan Road, which is a major thoroughfare right near our apartment) and ask every foreign passerby "Tailor? Copy watch?" They often stand in front of the stores selling Rolexes just to add a little much needed legitimacy to their endeavor. But it is possible to find a really good tailor through word of mouth -- people in Hong Kong have opinions about their tailors the way curly-haired people have opinions about their hairdressers.
Anyway, Tom knew from the beginning that he wanted to get a few suits tailor-made here, and I quickly agreed that such items should be written into the budget because I still feel guilty three years later about the time when we first started dating, and I offered to pick up his dry-cleaning, left it in my car overnight, and all of his suits got stolen by a crackhead who broke into the car, hacked out my stereo, and deposited a turd next to my car on his way out... I suppose it is possible that it was actually Finkin.* But I digress.
After doing extensive research, Tom finally asked one of his professors whose style he admired where he got his suits. The professor pointed him in the direction of a gentleman named Jack Balani of Riviera Fashions. With the afternoon off, Tom and I decided to visit.
As is usual on our Hong Kong adventures, we blundered at first. Following various hallways throughout what we were somewhat sure was the right building, we stumbled into the office of a George Balani (Jack's brother-in-law). He pointed us in the right direction, and I believe called his brother-in-law to warn him we were coming. But finally, we opened a nondescript door on the 6th floor into Jack's private office.
Apparently, people usually make appointments. But, Jack was very gracious and welcoming and asked us immediately what lovely customer of his had directed us there, as he knew that people don't just stumble in off the street and onto the 6th floor.
We told him, and then chatted for awhile about our experiences in Hong Kong and what Tom was looking for in a suit. Jack pulled out several wool swatches that he said were appropriate for a lawyer (i.e. not too flashy -- no My Cousin Vinny suits here). He also brought us gin and tonics, for which I was very grateful, what with the heat of the day and the fact that I needed something with which to amuse myself while Tom was being measured.
Jack quoted his price, and although Tom had come in ready to bargain, the price was so reasonable that I could see the fight go out of Tom's face within seconds. He managed to get Jack to throw in a couple of shirts with the two suits that he ordered, and then commenced the measuring.
Altogether, we were there for ~45 minutes, but this was just the first fitting, which is apparently nowhere near as important as the next one in which the fabric is actually draped around the customer, etc. Jack and Tom discussed style, and then Jack invited us to come back tomorrow for lunch before the second fitting. That's right, Tom's tailor is taking us out for lunch tomorrow. We are having Indian food, though the options were Chinese, Indian, or club sandwiches, really anything we wanted. This may be standard practice in Hong Kong, but it's still pretty damn cool.
In the process of chatting, Jack also learned that we two whippersnappers are getting hitched next summer, and in the delightfully familiar manner that I've never experienced in American culture, gave us advice about living frugally in our marriage, etc. etc. [Side note: the day after Tom and I got engaged, when we were taking a taxi back from the hotel room with which he'd surprised me, we lucked into a taxi driver from a southeast Asian culture who gave us a full 20 minutes worth of advice that he'd gleaned from 40 years of marriage. Unasked for, but much appreciated :-)]. Jack gave pointers on what Tom should wear for the wedding, and then invited us for dinner at his house (!). I'm not sure if the offer will stand, but I'm looking forward to seeing.
We learned that Jack, having never graduated from high school, started out as one of the "touts" on the corner more than 50 years ago, making $13.75/month. After 4 years of that, he got a small business loan from his father and opened up a storefront, growing his business from there. Now, he travels all over the world catering to thousands of clients, and has enough money to drive what he un-self-consciously describes as a jealousy-inducing car. One that he said he would send to pick us up for that dinner at his house. Tom and I had to contain our giant grins and exclamations of "That was SO COOL" until we exited the building.
Can't wait to see what the suits end up looking like! I may have to get one or two myself...

*This sentence possibly written by Thomas.

3 comments:

  1. Great story. Should've gone for the club sandwiches.

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  2. The club sandwiches will be consumed on Monday at Jack's office before the second fitting. We will also be having wonton soup, which we have been assured is "most delicious."

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  3. I realize this thread is from several years ago but I was just referred to this same man and while doing a little googlesleuthing - I came upon your blog. Can you tell me if Tom was pleased with his suits. And also - how was the wedding?

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